Food and drink keep body and soul together – especially whilst on holiday!
Below, we’ve put together a few tips for you, featuring restaurants and tavernas that we’ve tried ourselves or that our regular guests have recommended. Of course, taste is always a matter of personal preference, especially when it comes to food. What one person likes may be the exact opposite for another – why not give them a try?
We hope you have a great time and enjoy your meal!
One of the most romantic places to have dinner is undoubtedly the Venetian harbour. That said, you do pay a fair price for the view of the lighthouse and the fishing boats. Some friends of ours are regulars at ‘Knossos’, which is situated in a row alongside the other tavernas.
Why not try the grilled octopus with tzatziki and a small bottle of ouzo, or let the menu inspire you? Whilst you’re there, enjoy the humorous, multilingual service provided by Stavros and his sister Maria. By the way, there’s a narrow alleyway next to the Knossos that leads straight to the tavern. This might help you avoid the ‘solicitors’ outside the other restaurants. If you order fresh fish, be sure to ask the price first!
Very close to the car park at the harbour, you’ll find more tavernas if you turn right from the car park towards the Fortezza. It’s best to take the steps at the end of the car park. Right at the start, on the right-hand side of the road, you’ll see the “Fanari”, which serves Cretan cuisine at reasonable prices.
A little further down the same street, on the left-hand side, is the “Thalassografia”, a meze bar where you can put together your own meal from a selection of small dishes. The view over the harbour is impressive, and on hot summer nights you can enjoy a drink in the adjoining bar, situated directly below the castle walls, whilst enjoying a refreshing breeze.
In the heart of Rethymno’s old town, we also recommend the “Agrimia” tavern, just a few steps away from the Rimondi Fountain. It is situated amongst a whole host of other taverns, but stands out for its exceptional cleanliness and very friendly service. Amongst other languages, German is also spoken there. We ourselves, and many of our guests, have dined there on numerous occasions and have always been very satisfied. You can simply order à la carte, or ask for a selection of dishes to be put together as a meze platter. Just ask the waiters. Mezedes are a selection of dishes served on small plates, which are then placed in the centre of the table for everyone to help themselves. They are available as meat or fish platters. As in many
tavernas, dessert is on the house and is always accompanied by a raki.
Just nearby, at ‘Alana’, you’ll find not only Greek cuisine – such as octopus – but also steaks, risotto and a selection of different pasta dishes. Everything is very tasty, and there’s also a wide selection of fine wines to go with it.
Right in the old town is the “Raki Ba Raki”, which serves good food that you can put together yourself on various small plates (mezedes), for example.
If you then head towards the Rimoni Fountain from here, you’ll come across Mesologiou Street after just a few metres. Here you’ll find “Hari’s Creperie”. They serve excellent cappuccino, ice cream, pancakes and crêpes, with both sweet and savoury fillings.
Right next to the Rimondi Fountain is the “Galero”, a café open from morning until late at night, where you can get just about any drink you can imagine, from various types of coffee to alcoholic drinks of every kind. There are also snacks available for when you’re feeling peckish – waiter Dimitris will be happy to advise you! In the evenings, it’s like being at the cinema here: whilst you sip your drink, hundreds of tourists stroll past. Sometimes fire-eaters or other performers pop in too.
For those with a sweet tooth, head straight round the corner towards the Loggia, where you’ll find the “Mona Lisa” on the right-hand side – a zacharoplastio (similar to a patisserie) which also serves excellent ice cream.
If you’re out for a stroll through the old town and fancy a really good coffee and a few snacks, head to “Pantermo”, a cool café run by young people. Try the bougatsa (a pastry made from filo pastry and semolina cream) or other little treats. There aren’t many seats available, but everything is also available ‘to go’.
For a quick bite to eat on the go – for example, whilst out shopping on Arkadiou Street – we recommend “Nikos Souvlaki Shop”, which serves absolutely delicious souvlaki or gyros at unbeatable prices. It’s mainly Greeks who shop here, from the local granny round the corner to students and shopkeepers from the surrounding area.
On Strandstraße, heading out of town, there’s a good Italian restaurant called ‘Pagliaccio’. The staff are multilingual and attentive. The pizzas are delicious, but the rest of the food is also of good quality. It’s best to park at the marina and then walk the few minutes to the restaurant.
If you walk from the seafront promenade towards the Venetian harbour, you’ll come across the “Pepperoncino”, a new pizzeria. It serves all sorts of snacks and very good pizzas.
If you carry on a little further towards the Venetian Harbour, you’ll find two gastrobars on your left – “Livingroom” and “Queens” – where you can have breakfast, a coffee or a slice of cake, and also try the cocktail menu in the evening.
‘Prima Plora’ is situated in the Koumbes district (near the Atsipopoulo motorway exit; see map section above). It is one of the most beautiful spots to enjoy dinner right by the sea, with a view of the illuminated Fortezza. The food has been consistently good and varied for years, ranging from tasty salads (e.g. rocket with Parmesan and tomatoes) to a selection of small dishes, as well as fish and meat. For starters, why not try the various bruschetta options with salmon, grilled sardines or fava beans? For a change, there’s also delicious sushi. There’s a car park right next to the restaurant. We recommend that you always book in advance!
Very close by, you’ll find another taverna right by the sea – about 150 metres further towards the town centre on the left-hand side. It’s called “7 Thalasses” and is part of the Thalassa Boutique Hotel. You enter the taverna via the hotel entrance and can then sit right by the sea. The cuisine is Greek-Mediterranean, with a focus on fish dishes. Unfortunately, the parking situation isn’t particularly convenient.
Another option is the “Galera”. It’s situated between Prima Plora and 7 Thalasses. Here, too, they serve Greek dishes and fish dishes. There’s a car park right next to the restaurant.
In Misiria, you’ll find ‘Taverna Zisis’ on the old road to Heraklion. They serve excellent, traditional Greek cuisine here. You can also choose your meal at the counter.
As you drive through Armeni (towards Spili), after about 1.5 kilometres a road branches off to the left towards Kare and Goulediana. Carry on to Goulediana. Almost at
the edge of the village, on a bend, you’ll see ‘Taverne Goules’ on the right-hand side; you can park diagonally opposite. This tavern serves exceptionally tasty Greek cuisine. The owner cooks using traditional recipes and the finest ingredients. All our guests so far have been very satisfied with their meals there. There’s a menu of main courses that changes every few days; for example, we really enjoyed the braised lamb with vegetables. Let them surprise you! The restaurant opens at 2.00 pm.
If you drive south from Prines, you’ll find the “Androulidakis” tavern on the left-hand side in the next village, Gonia. It’s open daily from around 6.00 pm. Outside the tourist season, it’s closed on Tuesdays. The owner, Mariana, also speaks English. The food is tasty and typical of Greek country cuisine. The kolokithokeftedes (courgette fritters) with tzatziki are particularly delicious. It’s also only an 8- to 10-minute drive from Kastellos to Gonia.
In Prines itself, you’ll find Antonis’s little tavern, ‘The Olive’, on the new Platia. His mother cooks the daily specials, his father does the barbecuing, and his son Antonis takes care of the service. You can enjoy a good, reasonably priced meal here! Open daily from around 6.00 pm. It’s just a few minutes’ walk from Villa Sifina.
We particularly enjoyed our meal at the “Mariou” tavern. Head towards Plakias. Just before Plakias, a road branches off to the right and heads up the hill. Take this road. At the next junction, turn right and then drive through the village. As you leave the village, a small tarmac road leads uphill to the left. There’s also a small sign there. Take this road. The tavern is right at the top. A variety of dishes are freshly cooked every day. They’re usually ready around 1.00 pm. It’s all the very best of Greek country-style cooking, and you get a fantastic view of Plakias and the sea to boot. Highly recommended.
If you’re travelling from Rethymno along the dual carriageway towards Chania, you’ll see a turn-off for Episkopi near Pirgos. Turn left here and then follow the road towards Episkopi. Stay on this road for the time being and only turn sharply right at the end of the village, then left again after just a few metres. Drive past the (sand) football pitch; after a few hundred metres you will reach the tavern “Kipos tis Arkoudainas” (Bear Garden). It serves excellent traditional cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere. Particular highlights include, for example, the salads, which – until March 2023, page 8 – contain up to 40 ingredients, depending on the season.
If you’re travelling on from Episkopi to Argiroupoli, turn right just before the Argiroupoli town sign. Follow the sign for “Springs of Argyroupolis”. After about one kilometre, you’ll see several tavernas. Park at the last one, “Palaios Mylos”. The owner is G. Manousakas. You can sit comfortably under shady trees or by the waterfall. They serve fresh trout from their own fish farm, as well as good traditional Greek country cuisine, with the motto “Large portions at small prices”.
Are you planning a day at the beach in Episkopi? If so, we recommend ‘Mikro Livadi’, which is just a stone’s throw away by car. You can sit in a well-shaded garden and enjoy delicious Greek cuisine, much of which comes from their own garden.
