Travelling to Crete

Crete is very easily accessible by both air and sea. The island has two international airports, in Heraklion and Chania, which are usually served by direct flights from many European cities. 

Crete is also well connected by sea. Several ferry routes link the island to the Greek mainland – in particular to the port of Piraeus near Athens – as well as to various islands in the Aegean. If you wish to travel by ferry: www.minoan.gr/de


Climate

A true sun-drenched island – from late April to mid-October, you can expect cloudless skies! With 300 days of sunshine a year, Crete is, alongside Cyprus, the sunniest island in Greece and the whole of the Mediterranean. In summer, the temperature often rises to over 40 degrees, and on the south coast you can still take a dip in the sea as late as December. In general, it’s usually two or three degrees warmer there than in the north of the island.

Figures in °CMarchAprilMayJuneJulyAug.Sept.Oct.Nov.
Daytime temperature172024282929272421
Temperature at night101215192122191614
Hours of sunshine per day 68101210121066
Days with precipitation842100266
Water temperature161619222525242320

Facts about the island

At a glance:
Size: Crete is the largest island in Greece and the fifth-largest in the Mediterranean after Sicily, Sardinia, Cyprus and Corsica – covering an area of around 8,300 km², 260 km long and between 18 and 60 km wide.

Highest peaks: The highest peak is Timios Stavros in the Ida Mountains (Central Crete), at 2,456 m, followed by Pachnes in the Lefka Ori (Western Crete), which is a mere 4 m lower.

Plains: The largest plain is the Messara Plain in the south of Central Crete, covering 140 km². Other large plains are situated around Chania and Rethymno.

Population:
Transport: Crete has two major ports, namely Heraklion and Souda Bay (near Chania), as well as other ports in Kastelli, Rethymno, Agios Nikolaos and Sitia. There are three civil airports – Heraklion, Sternes (on the Akrotiri Peninsula near Chania) and Sitia. International flights only serve Heraklion and Chania.

Economy: Just over 30 per cent of the land area is suitable for agriculture; grapes and olives are the main export commodities. Industry exists on a small scale only around Heraklion. Tourism is of immense importance and already dominates the economy in large parts of the island. The Heraklion district accounts for 53% of all tourist accommodation on Crete, Lassithi for 24%, Rethymno for 12% and the Chania district for a mere 11%.

Administration: The island is divided into four administrative districts, known as ‘Nomi’: Chania (capital: Chania), Rethymno (capital: Rethymno), Heraklion (capital: Heraklion) and Lassithi (capital: Agios Nikolaos).

University: The University of Crete comprises six faculties in Rethymno (Languages, Philosophy, Sociology, Psychology, Education and Economics – approx. 3,000 students) and four in Heraklion (Physics, Mathematics, Chemistry, Medicine – approx. 5,000 students). The Polytechnic University is located in Chania.


Biology

Plants:
Where vast forests of cypress and cedar once stretched out, bare karst rock is now exposed, dotted with an endless sea of silvery-green olive trees. In between, the landscape is overgrown with maquis, knee-high phrygana and countless fragrant herbs. Metre-high agaves, wild carob trees, lush vineyards and oleanders provide striking contrasts.

Despite the extreme dryness during the summer months, over 1,500 different plant species are still native to the island today. This makes Crete one of the most vegetated islands in the Mediterranean.

Nature is at its most beautiful, particularly in late March and April. The vast pastures and karst landscapes are then nothing but seas of flowers. White and yellow daisies, bright red poppies and white daffodils form huge fields of flowers that sway in the wind, all accompanied by the vibrant buzzing of busy insects. If the winter has been wet, everything grows twice as well. Crete in spring and Crete in summer – two completely different faces.

Wildlife: The
island’s most famous species is the Cretan wild goat, the ibex or agrimi (scientific name: Capra aegagrus creticus), also mistakenly known as the kri-kri (the latter was a small wild goat raised by a shepherd). It was long threatened with extinction, and even today there are said to be only a few hundred of them – they live in the wild mainly on the inaccessible rocky slopes around the Samaria Gorge. You hardly ever catch a glimpse of them – they only sometimes venture down in the afternoons. Hunting them is strictly forbidden. Another threat to the breed’s survival is said to be interbreeding with domestic goats, which occurs from time to time. Otherwise, the most you’re likely to come across are small animals such as hares and rabbits – apart from the countless cats, dogs, sheep and donkeys.


Geography

First impression: an elongated mountain range rising from the sea, its dark-brown outline visible far off in the haze – one catches a glimpse of the island’s striking silhouette for far too brief a moment before the aeroplane descends over the inky-blue sea.

Crete lies like a mighty barrier on the southern edge of the Aegean Sea. The mountains are never far away and form the very heart of the island. Four mighty mountain ranges dominate the landscape: in Central Crete rises the colossal Ida massif, where, according to legend, the mighty father of the gods, Zeus, is said to have grown up.

To the west, the Lefka Ori, the ‘White Mountains’, form an imposing high-mountain backdrop. To the east, the steep ring of the Dikti Mountains surrounds the Lassithi Plateau with its white-clad windmills.

Finally, the Thripti Mountains define the narrow easternmost tip of Crete.

To the north, the Cretan mountains gently slope down into rolling foothills, forming vast coastal plains where all the major towns and large holiday resorts are situated. The situation is different in the south, particularly in the south-west. Here, the two-thousand-metre peaks end in sheer drops: cliff faces interspersed with sandy and pebbly beaches, tiny villages nestled between high rock faces, onto which the sun beats down mercilessly. Some villages and beaches can only be reached by boat, via bumpy dirt tracks or on foot. Coastal walks and the deep gorges that cut their way for many kilometres through the steep mountain slopes offer magnificent scenic experiences here. The world-famous Samaria Gorge, often described as Europe’s longest gorge, is just one of the many highlights.


Regions of Crete

Western Crete:
The most mountainous and largest part of the island. The Lefka Ori (White Mountains) dominate the landscape. Their bare rocky peaks rise to almost 2,500 metres. Towards the south coast, they are cut through by immense gorges – the Samaria Gorge and its neighbouring gorges are among the island’s most impressive natural wonders. Today, only a few mountain passes lead down through the remote highlands to the small villages on the Libyan Sea.

Central Crete:
The hinterland of Heraklion is one vast vineyard. The endless rolling hills form Greece’s largest contiguous wine-growing region. To the west, this sun-scorched region is flanked by the mighty Ida Mountains. At 2,456 metres, Timios Stavros is the island’s highest peak. The most popular destination is Anoghia – the centre of the high-altitude pastures for some 100,000 sheep. Mountain walkers continue on to the Nida Plateau and the famous Cave of Zeus. The Dikti massif in eastern central Crete is easily accessible from the north coast and from Agios Nikolaos. The magnificent drive up into the mountains ends at the completely flat and almost circular Lassithi Plateau – this is where Zeus was born! The south is characterised by the vast Messara Plain, one of the island’s most fertile regions. The legendary cave dwellings of Matala are one of the region’s many attractions.

Eastern Crete:
The east of Crete is largely barren, dry and rocky. It is dominated by the grey Sitia Mountains, which, although only just under 1,500 metres high, are wild and largely undeveloped. Agios Nikolaos has established itself as a lively tourist town that retains a certain charm despite the hustle and bustle. The vast Mirabellou Bay, the legendary palm-fringed beach at Vai and the Minoan palace at Kato Zakros are further highlights. Near Ierapetra, endless grey pebble beaches invite you to take a dip.


Administrative districts

Crete is divided into four administrative regions.
From east to west: Lassithi, Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania. 

The administrative regions are further divided into districts.

  • Chania
    comprises the districts of Kydonia, Apokoronas, Sfakia, Kissamos and Selino.
  • Rethymno
    comprises Rethymno, Milopotamos, Amari and Agios Vasilios.
  • Heraklion
    comprises the districts of Malevizi, Temenos, Pediada, Pirgiotisa, Kainourio, Monofatsi and Viannos.
  • Lassithi
    comprises Mirabelo, Lassithi, Ierapetra and Sitia.

Marathon

Unfortunately, we can’t offer you a proper marathon here.
However, you’ll be surrounded by plenty of countryside with lots of paths that you can use for jogging and walking.


Tradition

Cretan music:
Cretan music is wild and untamed. It’s a world away from the tame bouzouki music of mainland Greece! The star of the show is the lyra, the traditional three-stringed stringed instrument made from mulberry wood.

Cretan dances:
Through dance, the Cretans express their feelings and state of mind. But it is not just joy that comes to the surface; grief, anger and pain are also expressed.

Cretan festivals:
The Cretans love to celebrate, and they do so lavishly – you’re bound to have the chance somewhere to experience one of the countless festivals, usually held on a saint’s day or to mark a political occasion.

Traditional dress:
Traditional dress used to vary from village to village and was often influenced by Turkish or North African styles. Today, only the elderly men in the mountainous regions still occasionally wear the wraka – loose-fitting black bloomers worn with knee-high boots (stivania) or wrapped gaiters – along with the fringed headscarf, the sariki or mandili, wrapped around the head. The magnificent Cretan waistcoats with their intricate embroidery and the wide red sash, in which the bounialo – a silver knife – was tucked, are, by contrast, hardly ever seen anymore. Shepherds, however, still often use the sakouli, a colourful, hand-woven rucksack.

The richly decorated women’s traditional costumes (sakkos and phousta) have now almost completely disappeared.

Church:
The Cretan Church is a true people’s church and follows the tradition of early Christianity. Church, faith and daily life are very closely intertwined in Crete. The service is an informal gathering without stiff formalities and retains a natural feel even in moments of the utmost solemnity. People in Crete enjoy going to church; it is an important meeting place and the centre of village life.

The Cretan Orthodox Church is directly subordinate to the Patriarch of Istanbul.


History

  • 6000–2600 BC: ‘Neolithic’ (first settlers) –
    The origins remain shrouded in mystery – it is likely that the first settlers arrived in Crete between 6000 and 5000 BC and laid the foundations of Cretan culture.
  • 2600–2000 BC: ‘Pre-Palatial Period’ –
    The first flowering of Cretan culture, before the great palace complexes were built.
  • 2000–1700 BC: “Early Palace Period” –
    Construction of the first palaces (e.g. Knossos), the beginning of the Minoan high culture.
  • 1700–1450 BC: ‘Late Palace Period’ –
    Reconstruction following earthquakes, the heyday of the Minoans, magnificent frescoes and trade.
  • 1400–1100 BC: ‘Post-Palatial Period’ –
    Decline of the Minoan palaces, increasing influence of Mycenaean culture.
  • 1100–480 BC: ‘Doric Period’ –
    Invasion of the Dorians, foundation of many city-states.
  • 480–67 BC: Classical and Hellenistic periods –
    Crete remains fragmented into city-states; its importance in the Mediterranean declines.
  • 67 BC – 395 AD: Roman rule –
    Crete becomes part of the Roman Empire.
  • 395–826: “Early Byzantine Period” –
    Crete under Byzantine control; early Christianity spreads.
  • 826–961: ‘Arab Conquest’ –
    Arabs occupy Crete; piracy comes to dominate the island.
  • 961 – 1204: “Second Byzantine Period” –
    Byzantium reconquers Crete; Christian culture regains the upper hand.
  • 1204–1669: The Venetians –
    A golden age under Venetian rule; towns with a Western flair spring up.
  • 1669–1898: The Turks in Crete –
    Ottoman rule, marked by prolonged struggles and popular uprisings.
  • 1898–1913: Autonomous Crete –
    The island is granted autonomy under international protection.
  • 1913–1941: Annexation by Greece –
    Crete officially becomes part of Greece.
  • From 1941: The Second World War and the post-war period –
    Occupation by German troops, heavy fighting.
  • 1951: NATO accession –
    Greece joins NATO.
  • 1967–1974: Military dictatorship in Greece –
    The junta era, restrictions on democratic rights.
  • 1974: A new beginning for democracy –
    Overthrow of the military dictatorship. Karamanlis becomes the new Prime Minister, securing a bloodless transition to democracy. The monarchy is abolished. Greece becomes a parliamentary democratic republic.
  • 1981: Accession to the European Community –
    Greece becomes a member of the EC.
  • 1981–1989: Papandreou government (PASOK) –
    The first prolonged socialist government, with Andreas Papandreou as Prime Minister
  • 1990–1993: Mitsotakis government (Nea Dimokratia) –
    The conservative party Nea Dimokratia governs under Prime Minister Kostas Mitsotakis.
  • 1993–1996: Another change of government –
    Return of the Socialists: Andreas Papandreou becomes Prime Minister once again.
  • 1996–2004: Simitis government –
    A period of stability marked by economic reforms. Konstantinos Simitis succeeded Andreas Papandreou, who was in poor health.
  • 2002: Introduction of the euro –
    The euro replaces the Greek drachma as the currency.
  • 2004: Kostas Karamanlis becomes Prime Minister –
    a shift to the conservative party.
  • 2009: Giorgos Papandreou takes over –
    Another socialist government: In October, following snap elections, Giorgos Andreas Papandreou replaces Kostas Karamanlis as Prime Minister of Greece and also takes over the Foreign Ministry.
  • 2011: Papadimos’s caretaker government –
    a crisis government during the financial crisis: In November, Papandreou agrees with opposition leader Samaras to form a caretaker government. The parties involved are PASOK, NEA DIMOKRATIA and L.A.O.S. Following Papandreou’s resignation, the independent Loukas Papadimos becomes Prime Minister.
  • 2012: Antonis Samaras (Nea Dimokratia) –
    Conservative government, narrow election victory: Two further rounds of voting take place in quick succession in May and June; the conservative NEA DIMOKRATIA ultimately emerges as the strongest party, with a narrow lead over the left-wing socialist SYRIZA. Antonis Samaras of NEA DIMOKRATIA is elected Prime Minister.
  • 2015: Alexis Tsipras (SYRIZA) –
    Left-wing government takes office, the dawn of a new era: As social unrest continued to grow despite some reforms, Alexis Tsipras of the victorious SYRIZA took office as Prime Minister following yet another snap general election.